The first roll Madame Saito wrapped in 1980s Philadelphia became, in time, a surname. The idea of translating the brunch classic of smoked salmon and cream cheese into the language of sushi gathered relatives around it: an avocado cousin, a shrimp modernist, a generous member who moved the cheese into the lead. Today, nearly every counter in the world carries more than one roll under this surname.

The Philadelphia Set is the family’s group portrait: all the voices together in thirty-two pieces. The pleasure of a group portrait is comparison; over the same cool ground of cheese, you hear side by side how salmon, shrimp and avocado tell different stories. A single roll is a sentence; the set is the whole paragraph.

The plate has its sociology as well: the Philadelphia family is the favorite of tables just getting to know sushi, because it holds the familiar and the new inside one bite. Cream cheese is the old friend; nori, the neighbor just met.

Family tables are crowded; so is this board. Share it; the Philadelphia family always did love having guests.